Moncler Gamme Rouge / Spring 2014 RTW

That, in essence, is what Valli’s Moncler Gamme Rouge is all about: how to take what is performance wear and elevate it with the kind of artisanal effects that one more readily associates with his own label. Hence, the way that a short snakeskin dress, more akin to a long belted tee, can carry a flurry of feathers painted to echo the reptilian scales, or a hip-length white safari jacket, worn with a baseball cap pulled down over the eyes and knee-length shorts, comes rippling with plumage that swirls around the shoulders, a dramatic flourish more readily associated with his evening dresses. His approach was also evident in an austere black zippered-front collarless coat with a nipped waist—austere, that is, save for the sleeves fringed with black raffia.

Valli’s collection channeled the chic sports vibe that has been running through the spring collections like Usain Bolt, flashing before the eyes at breakneck speed. That athleticism only got more pronounced as the collection rushed along—quite literally, at one point, with four teen boys careering down the runway on skateboards. The haute workmanship continued, being incorporated into pieces that were ever more sporty, such as a band-striped dress with a blue check windbreaker casually knotted by the sleeves around the model’s waist, before finally crossing the finishing line in a mash-up of leopard spots, utilitarian khaki, and fluorescent orange.

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